Ecuador

February 2009

My sister Fulya, who lives in Istanbul, joined me on this trip. Leaving Boston’s snowy landscape behind, we flew to Miami on American Airlines to connect to a four-hour flight to Quito.

As we descended to Quito Airport at 10 pm, the pilot announced 62º F weather — a welcome contrast to the 26º we had had departing from Boston. Although there is no time difference between Boston and Quito, the altitude change is considerable, at 9300 feet above sea level. To prevent the effects of altitude sickness, such as fatigue and headache, we took medication on the day of our departure, in addition to malaria pills in anticipation of our trip to the Amazon and the required yellow fever vaccination.

The airport in Quito gave the impression of a small, quaint town, rather than of a capital city with a population of almost 2 million. It seemed relatively quiet; one small luggage carrousel was in operation. We met our local guide, Roberto, who welcomed us to his country with a warm smile. The quaint feeling also permeated our centrally located hotel in the old town. We received a large room key, accompanied by a remote control for the TV, a highly valued item to be returned to the desk at the end of our stay. We dropped off to sleep at midnight.

The following day, a Sunday, coincided with Carnival in Ecuador, where 98% of the population are Catholic. There was hardly any traffic on the streets. People were either at church or had left town for the seashore on account of the holiday. Our tour of Quito started at Itchimbia Park, which has a fine panoramic view of the city, perched on the eastern slopes of Pichincha, an active volcano. The city’s horizontal layout from above prominently displayed a 148-foot winged steel statue of the Virgin of Quito, in addition to the Basilica and a multitude of other church domes and towers. Downtown Quito boasts 57 churches.

Crystal House is a new cultural and exposition center located in Itchimbia Park. The all-glass building amidst multi-hued flower beds symbolizes contemporary Quito, as opposed to the Old Town, home to colonial architecture. A brief stop in front of the Congress building revealed a mural depicting the history of Ecuador. Carved out of local stone in 1976, the story is told in relief from left to right, beginning with the arrival of the Incas in the late 15th century, and followed by Spanish soldiers on horses in 1532 and colonization. The account continues with scientists arriving in 1776 to prove the earth was round, and ends with a mounted Simón Bolívar, who liberated Ecuador from Spanish rule in 1822.

Ecuador became a republic in 1830; its national flag of yellow, blue, and red with a central emblem is visible throughout the capital city. Spanish and Quechua, the language of the Incas, are the official languages. Taught in all schools, Quechua is widely spoken among the indigenous people and has replaced English as an official language under the government of President Rafael Correa.

Quito, which means “center” in Quechua, was named UNESCO’s first World Heritage Site in 1978. It is a well preserved city with magnificent Spanish colonial architecture. The heart of the Old Town is Plaza de la Independencia, flanked by the Presidential Palace and the Cathedral. Lined with palm trees, the square is a hub of activity, from political protests to family outings.

Carnival festivities filled the air during our visit; spectators circled dancers in colorful costumes, and pranksters sprayed one another with shaving cream, while assorted vendors jostled for tourists’ attention. Window-shopping introduced us to figures of baby Jesus, who brings gifts at Christmas instead of Santa Claus.

Invited to a local family’s home for lunch, we drove close to the Equator. Our hosts lived next door to the Inti Nan Solar Museum, which we later visited for an experience in seeing what it feels like to stand on the middle of the Earth. Befitting its setting, the house was furnished with country antiques. The lunch table featured bowls of roasted corn and beans to snack on. This turned out to be the custom wherever we traveled; popped or roasted corn preceded a soup course or embellished it in lieu of croutons. Cream of potato soup, followed by chicken with fried plantains, broccoli, and red cabbage provided a satisfying meal. Fig dessert accompanied by a slice of salty white cheese completed the menu. For drinks we had passion fruit juice or bottled water. Our host spoke only Spanish, but we were able to communicate with the help of her daughter, who knew some English.

The Inti Nan Museum provided a glimpse into the traditional customs of the Andean people dating back to 1875. We walked around bungalows made of palm leaves and hammocks woven from young palm strings. Sleeping in one bed kept everyone warm. Guinea pigs were raised as a delicacy. Shrunken human heads were prized as trophies; some continue the tradition with monkey heads.

A straight red line on the ground designates the midline of the Earth at zero latitude, where several activities demonstrate centrifugal forces at work. Leaves placed in a sink of water on the north side of the line swirl counter-clockwise, as opposed to those swirling clockwise when placed in water on the south side. When the sink is placed right on the line, the leaves are sucked instantly into the drain. Other demonstrations included the ease with which our clenched fists could be opened when we stood on the Equator, and our loss of equilibrium when we walked with eyes closed at zero latitude. A demonstration of how easy it was to balance an egg on the head of a nail was the most astonishing of all.

On the way back we stopped at Pomasqui, a town famous for its hand-churned ice cream. We watched sweetened fruit juice and water turn into ice cream, as an attendant kept stirring the liquid in a brass bowl placed over chunks of ice and salt. Roberto, our guide, treated us to two scoops of the flavor of our choice. We walked out of the shop comparing flavors; mine were blackberry and mango — simply delicious.

During our free time, Fulya and I walked to a crafts market, which was comprised of narrow alleys lined with small shops. I bought a hand-painted picture frame and a mirror. We had dinner at a restaurant strategically placed to view the surrounding mountains. The city lights below shimmered, disappeared, and reappeared as the fog moved through them, providing an ever-changing spectacle.

The hotel in Quito was our home base, where we left our main luggage during our three-day trips with small duffel bags to the Amazon Basin and the Galapagos Islands. This proved to be a good arrangement, as each area’s unique climate required different types of clothing — long sleeves and neutral colors for the Amazon; shorts, swimming suit, and sandals for the islands. In between trips, we had further opportunities for sightseeing in Quito.

One of my memorable experiences in Quito was a visit to Folklore Olga Fisch, a shop with a museum. Hungarian artist Olga Fisch, the owner, works with indigenous artisans to blend folk art with traditional fine art. Upstairs is a museum of ethnology depicting the lives of various indigenous communities. The shop’s displays include hand-woven rugs, tapestries, baskets, pottery, textiles, jewelry, and other one-of-a-kind crafts — a worthwhile stopping place to have an idea of the richness of local handicrafts.

An optional tour of Quito included some jewels of colonial architecture. The Iglesia de la Compañía is one of the most lavish of Latin American churches. Built between 1605 and 1765, this Jesuit baroque church is intricate both inside and out, combining Spanish-Moorish motifs with Quiteño colonial art. The altar shimmers in gold; a reputed seven tons of gold leaf cover the interior. In keeping with the church’s symmetry, the stairway on the left side is replicated as a painting on the right. Two large opposing paintings at the entrance depict hell on the left and ascension to heaven on the right.

The neighborhood of La Ronda is a slice of colonial Quito dating from 1800, with adobe houses, colorful window frames, and doorways livened up with potted flowers. We walked down narrow streets of polished cobblestones bordered by restored old houses with Spanish balconies, stopping at a bar to enjoy canelazo — a local drink made by mixing fruit juice from naranjilla, a local citrus fruit, with fermented cane sugar and sprinkled with cinnamon. The potent drink cost all of 50¢ a glass. Ecuador’s currency is pegged to the US dollar.

Another highlight was dinner at a restaurant called Octava de Corpus on Plaza San Marcos. The owner is a collector of antiques, as well as of folk and fine art. The eclectic collection is displayed throughout the colonial house, with each room exhibiting paintings of a different period, from classical to contemporary. Providing the atmosphere of a private dining room, the elegant table settings all feature bouquets of red roses as centerpieces. Dinner began with a complimentary glass of fig-flavored liqueur, the house specialty, and offered a choice of appetizers, main dishes, and desserts. My choices were shrimp ceviche (seafood marinated in lemon, orange, tomato juice, and sliced onions), grilled fish, and passion fruit cassata.